|
Since independence
in 1990 the area is subdivided into the four regions of Oshikoto,
Oshana, Omusati and Ohangwena with altogether 780,000 inhabitants
according to the 2001 census. This is almost 43% of Namibia’s
total population of 1.83 million. Most of the people live
in traditional homesteads consisting of several huts which
are connected by a system of passages and enclosed by sturdy
palisades with pointed tops. But the trimmings of civilization
are clearly in evidence as well, taking the shape of a stone
house with a corrugated iron roof in the centre of a homestead
or that of a satellite dish on a thatched roof. The main road
is tarred; in long stretches the concrete bed of an aqueduct
runs next to it. Along the way you pass numerous Cuca Shops,
which are best described as a small general store combined
with a bar. Apart from soft drinks and alcoholic beverages,
including Tombo, the home-brewed beer, they stock daily necessities
such as maize flour, tinned food and pegs. Customers are lured
with imaginative names like “Freedom Land”, “Broadway”
or “Marlboro Bar” painted in bold and colourful
characters. Larger places boast supermarkets with a more varied
range of goods, including fresh fruit and vegetables, while
the shopping centres of Oshakati and Ondangwa by far exceed
the facilities of places like Tsumeb or Grootfontein.
When it comes to
tourism, however, the north has hardly been opened up as yet.
Only during the past few years has an accommodation facility
or craft-workshop sprung up here and there.
Sights and Attractions
The descriptions and information given hereafter are sorted
geographically and follow the route via Tsumeb to Ruacana.
Even though the district of Tsumeb is part of the Oshikoto
Region it is not included here because visitors usually stop
there on the usual route to Etosha through the centre of the
country.
Crafts
Travelling through Ovambo you will come across many small
craft projects. Examples are the Tulongeni Craft Market in
Omuthiya, 82 km south of Ondangwa or the Ndilimani Pottery
Project in Onenongo, 20 km northwest of Oshakati. These projects,
some
Craft Market
of them initiated by NGOs, are primarily intended to generate
an income for women and at the same time keep traditional
skills alive. Basket-ware and hats are woven from palm leaves,
oil is pressed from the kernel of the Marula fruit, earthen
jugs and bowls are baked in pits filled with red-hot charcoal,
and handmade paper is framed and printed on.
King Nehale Gate
This gate nearby the Andoni waterhole in the north-east of
Etosha National Park was officially opened in 2003. It is
named after King Nehale Lya Mpingana whose warriors attacked
Fort Namutoni in January 1904 and forced the tiny Schutztruppe
garrison to flee. If you plan to travel to Namibia’s
far north from Namutoni, this gate will save you a 100-km-drive
around Etosha’s eastern border.
Namutoni
Nakambale Museum
In 1871 the Finnish Mission Society established a mission
station at Olukonda, situated today about 10 km south of Ondangwa.
Missionary Martti Rautanen was at work there from 1880 until
his death in 1926. The local people called him Nakambale,
‘the man with the hat’. Amongst others, Rautanen
translated the bible into the Ndonga language and in 1889
built the first church in the area. His house, built in 1893,
and the church were renovated in the early nineties with financial
aid from the Finnish government. Both buildings have been
declared national monuments.
In 1995 a museum
was opened in the old missionary house, named 'Nakambale'
in honour of Rautanen. In his study a wooden stand with scraps
of paper will catch your eye. They have Oshindonga words written
on them to help the missionary with his vocabularies. An insight
into the daily life of those times is gained by photos of
the Rautanen family and other missionaries, as well as numerous
items from the early years of missionary work. The culture
and tradition of the Owambo is also covered, of course. Exhibits
include ornaments, pottery, tools and weapons. Furthermore
there are attractive boards which, for example, explain the
royal houses of this people and their history.
Take the time to
look at the traditional Ndonga homestead which has been built
next to the missionary house to afford glimpses of an otherwise
secluded world. On a tour of the homestead the functions of
the different huts as well as the Owambo culture and way of
life are explained. A small shop offers craft items from the
area.
Ondangwa and Oshakati
These two towns have almost grown into one during the past
years. There you find modern shopping centres, banks, hotels
and even soccer stadiums. Their African character is preserved
by the numerous stands and road-side kitchens lining the streets
and by the markets which offer anything that the heart might
desire – whether colourful cloth or a goat’s head.
Oshakati is the administrative centre of the Oshana Region.
Oshanas and Lake Oponono
The Oshana system covers a sizable area in the central north.
It is no coincidence that one of the regions was named after
these extensive elongated depressions which fill up with water
after sufficient rainfalls. The main route crosses the area
from southeast to northwest. The Oshana system is also called
Cuvelai system after its most important tributary. It starts
in the rainy Angolan Highlands and ends in the Etosha Pan.
But only every two or three years it happens that the floodwaters
indeed make it all the way through the Omadhija Lakes and
the seasonal Ekuma River to reach Etosha. The largest of the
Omadhija Lakes is Lake Oponono. This lake area is not easy
to reach as it is surrounded by a maze of paths and passages.
Thus it is advisable to take a guide along for directions.
The only other water system in Namibia which is similar to
the Omadhija Lakes is Lake Liambesi in the Caprivi.
Tsandi Royal Homestead
Seven traditional ‘kingdoms’ with highly regarded
leaders continue to exist in northern Namibia. One of them
is the Uukwaluudhi Empire led by King Shikongo Josea Taapopi.
The King’s former homestead in the vicinity of Tsandi
is open to visitors. Taapopi himself lives quite close in
a solid house of stone. With the help of the Namibia Community-Based
Tourism Association (Nacobta) several young people from the
area were trained as tourist guides. During a one-hour tour
they take you through the former royal abode and explain the
royal family’s tradition and history, their values and
rituals. By prior arrangement groups will be served traditional
dishes and entertained with dance performances. Traditional
household items as well as craft items typical of the Uukwaluudhi
culture are available in a small souvenir shop.
Ongulumbashe Monument
The Ongulumbashe Monument is a reminder of the first violent
clashes between the liberation movement and the South African
police, which occurred in this spot in 1966. From Tsandi it
is a 15-minute-drive to Ongulumbashe; a guide from Tsandi
can direct you.
Baobab Trees
Several Baobab trees in the vicinity of Tsandi are quite famous.
The hollow trunk of ‘King Nashilongo’s Baobab’
was used as an ‘office’ by that king. ‘Sir
Howard’s Baobab’ is a particularly large specimen,
named in honour of the first South African administrator who
visited the area in 1916. You will find the trees faster if
you take a guide along.
Uutapi
Uutapi’s special feature is the ‘Ombalantu Baobab’.
The enormous hollowed trunk has already served as a post office
and as a chapel.
Ruacana Falls
A few kilometres west of Ruacana the highland of Ovambo drops
steeply. This stretch of the road is particularly beautiful
in the early morning light, with the huge water surface of
the dammed-up Kunene glittering on your right side.
Ruacana Falls
The Ruacana Falls are about 120 m deep and 700 m wide, but
these days water gushes over the falls only after particularly
good rains, when the sluice gates have to be opened. This
last happened in 2004, after many dry years. Otherwise the
water is fed through the turbines of the hydroelectric power
station. Technically-minded visitors can go for a tour of
the power station. Guides trained by Nacobta can show you
the falls on a walk along the Kunene and they can also take
you to one of the traditional OvaHimba villages in the vicinity
(see the Northwest above).
Between Kalahari and Okavango - Namibia’s Northeast,
Small settlements of thatched huts cower under trees and between
bushes, followed by patches planted with Mahango, a local
type of millet. Cattle move freely about and cross the road
at times in search of grazing,
which is not plentiful in the dry hinterland at
certain times of the year. Village
Children play in the sand and women gracefully carry heavy
loads on their heads quite effortlessly, it seems. Then, suddenly
the terrain drops and a broad shimmering band of silver becomes
visible. It meanders through a landscape of greens and browns
and has lent its name to the entire region: the Okavango.
Children Playing Soccer
The contrast between the commercial farming land in the central
parts of the country, dominated by thick bush and bordered
by seemingly endless fences, and the open, tall forests and
communally utilised areas of the north is striking. Shacks
built from corrugated iron sheets and the occasional little
stone house start to take the place of traditional mud cottages,
cars oust the sledges drawn across the sand by oxen, plastic
replaces earthen ware. But it is the very co-existence of
the traditional and the modern in the midst of this vast landscape
so rich in vegetation which the visitor perceives as utterly
charming. And when you have finally made it to the Okavango
River, the contrasting worlds are further highlighted by a
lack and an abundance of water, by bush savannah and an almost
tropical forest and swamp vegetation.
The descriptions
and information given hereafter are listed geographically.
Visitors to the Kavango Region usually choose a route which
more or less follows the Okavango’s course eastwards.
The areas west of Rundu have hardly been opened up for tourism
to date. The Popa Falls and Mahango Game Reserve, situated
on the Okavango slightly south-east of Andara, are also included
here even though they are technically part of the Caprivi
Region.
Rundu
This little border town is the administrative centre of the
Kavango Region. Rundu in particular, is bustling with border
traffic to and from Angola. A major co-operative of woodcarvers,
called Mbangura, is situated in the centre of town, right
next to the Spar. There you are certain to find something
to take home with you. Accommodation facilities in and around
Rundu offer numerous activities in the riverine scenery of
the Okavango. Amongst others, there are boat excursions, fishing
and canoe trips, hiking tours or a guided visit to a village
to choose from. However, do not swim in the river as it is
inhabited by crocodiles.
Kaudom Game Park
This park is situated off the usual travelling routes in eastern
Namibia and ends at the border fence between Namibia and Botswana.
Patches of deep Kalahari sand make it difficult to negotiate
in places which probably contributes to the fact that Kaudom
remains one of Namibia’s almost untouched areas. The
park is dissected by Kalahari dunes overgrown with dry forest
of varying height. There are many types of rare wood among
the deciduous trees, like Kiaat or Manketti. So-called omiramba
(singular: omuramba) form green veins between the dunes. They
are subterranean river courses which fill with surface water
only during the rainy season.
Kaudom Game Park is particularly noted for its population
of the very rare African Wild Dog. With a little luck you
can encounter herds of Elephant, Gnu and Roan Antelope, Hyena,
Leopard and Lion. In the thick bush game is sometimes difficult
to spot, although bird lovers have more than 300 species to
admire, including many birds of prey.
Lion
Kaudom Game Park is particularly noted for its population
of the very rare African Wild Dog. With a little luck you
can encounter herds of Elephant, Gnu and Roan Antelope, Hyena,
Leopard and Lion. In the thick bush game is sometimes difficult
to spot, although bird lovers have more than 300 species to
admire, including many birds of prey.
Visitors should
take note that this remote park may only be entered in a convoy
of at least two vehicles. This rule is foremost intended for
your own safety, in case of a break-down.
Andara
At the start of the 20th century a mission station was set
up in Andara. The graves of the first missionaries are still
there to testify to the hardships of those early years. Andara
once had a very special significance for the Mbukushu people.
Their chieftains used to be laid to rest on Chiefs’
Island in the middle of the Okavango. These days the burial
place is at Mukwe.
Popa Game Park
The Popa Falls are situated in this tiny park. In reality
the ‘falls’ are no more than rapids which ease
the Okavango over a gradual drop of three metres. However,
the rush of water is audible from a distance and the multitude
of water channels, the rocks and the lush green vegetation
make for attractive
Popa Falls
photo themes. Huge old acacias provide shade, a tributary
ripples through the park area, birds sing in the trees during
the day and at night you hear the deep grumbling sounds of
Hippo in conversation.
Mahango Game Reserve
In the eastern part of the park the road follows a river course.
From your slightly elevated position you will ever so often
enjoy fantastic views of the Okavango’s floodplains
below. It is a picture of vast plains of grass and reeds,
bordered by patches of shaggy palm trees or towering mighty
Baobabs. In the west, on the other hand, the vegetation on
the banks of the Mahango and Thinderevu omiramba is dominated
by dense dry forest. You need a 4x4 to follow these subterranean
river courses.
The Mahango Game
Reserve is particularly known for its Elephant. You can also
spot Buffalo or the shy Sitatunga and Lechwe. Similar riverine
vegetation exists in very few other places in Namibia, as
most of it has been destroyed by endeavours to till the land.
Bushmanland
Far above the ground the trunk of the enormous tree spreads
out into a crown which looks like a delicate root system –
as if giants had uprooted the tree and stuck it back the wrong
way round. The bark of the rotund, smooth trunk is often deeply
scarred – testifying to the tree’s tremendous
age of up to 1.000 years. Many stories and legends of the
San revolve around the fascinating Baobab. Particularly impressive
Namibian specimens are found in Bushmanland.
Rock Painting
So-called Bushmanland can roughly be divided into two areas.
The western part covers about 9,000 km² from the village
of Omatako, east of Grootfontein, to Tsumkwe. Approximately
4,500 members of the !Kung San live in this area. In 2003
they established N#a Jaqna, a communal conservancy which uses
income derived from tourism for nature conservation and community
development. Another conservancy, Nyae Nyae, is situated in
eastern Bushmanland. It covers an area from Kaudum Game Park
along the border to Botswana and in a wide stretch across
Tsumkwe down to Gam. This conservancy was established in 1998
and is home to about 2,000 people.
Try to combine
a visit to Bushmanland with a detour to Kaudom Game Park.
In both cases a four-wheel drive vehicle is essential, and
navigation is considerably facilitated by GPS. Since 2002
it is possible to continue from Tsumkwe into Botswana. However,
you have to cross about 180 km of no-man’s land, which
should only be attempted with a guide and in a convoy of several
vehicles. Bushmanland is particularly beautiful after good
rains. Then the Nyae Nyae Pans south of Tsumkwe also fill
up with water and attract thousands of birds, including pelicans
and flamingos. The enormous Baobab trees are another attraction
of this region. Some of the best-known specimens, with a girth
of more than 30 metres, are called ‘Holboom’,
‘Homasi’ and ‘Dorsland Tree’.
Several San communities
at Omatako and Tsumkwe afford visitors an opportunity to learn
more about their way of life. You can participate in a traditional
hunt, have the art of reading tracks explained to you (when
looking for Elephant, for example), gather veld foods or help
with the cooking. However, strangers are rarely welcome to
witness traditional song, music and dance. Please take note
that a visit to one of the communities should be booked at
least several days in advance through the office of the Namibia
Community-Based Tourism Association (Nacobta).
Tsumkwe
This hamlet consists of approximately 20 houses, including
a small hospital, as well as a church, a police station and
the Nature Conservation office. There is no petrol station.
Namibia’s remotest northwest,
Bubbling masses of water plunge into the depths with a resounding
rumble. A scintillating rainbow hovers behind a veil of mist.
An enormous Baobab clings to the wet, steeply dropping rock.
Hundreds of Makalani palms line the river’s delta ahead
of the precipice.
Naked rock rises from lush vegetation between cascades of
frothy white waterfalls – a green island in the middle
of the barren brown landscape of the surrounding mountains.
The Epupa Falls are among the many attractions of Kaokoveld
in the far northwest of Namibia.
Epupa Falls
They are part of the Kunene River which forms the boundary
of the region and the national border between Namibia and
Angola. In the east, Kaokoveld borders on the Omusati Region
inhabited by the Owambo people and on Etosha National Park;
the Skeleton Coast Park is the boundary in the west, and in
the south it is the seasonal Hoanib River which runs from
east to west. At approximately 49,000 km² the area is
roughly the size of Switzerland.
Kaokoveld is regarded
as one of the last wild and secluded areas in Namibia –
even though tourism has increased considerably during the
past years. As yet, travelling routes concentrate on a few
villages and connecting roads. The largest part of this huge
land, especially the west, is scarcely populated or not at
all. Getting there is adventurous to say the least and only
possible by 4x4 vehicles.
The varied, vast
and incredibly silent landscape, home of the OvaHimba people,
quickly casts its spell on every visitor. Steep mountain ranges
dissect this country, with passes which seem unconquerable
- like the famous Van Zyl‘s Pass. Wide valleys open
between them and after the rains silvery-green fields of grass
sway on their plains - like at Marienfluss. Far to the west
a sea of sand dunes takes over, beyond which lies the infamous
Skeleton Coast. Rivers meander through these semi-desert and
desert scapes. They are seasonal, which means that they only
carry water after sufficient rainfalls. Nevertheless they
sustain people and animals in their meagre existence –
like the Hoarusib or Hoanib River.
The Sights
Descriptions and information given hereafter are sorted geographically
and follow the standard route, starting at the Ruacana Falls,
along the Kunene to Swartbooisdrift, via Epembe to Epupa,
then south to Opuwo and to the Khowarib Gorge near Sesfontein.
During the dry season these routes are manageable by all.
The western part
of Kaokoland, however, is not easily accessible and will not
be dealt with in any detail. Suffice to say it is an area
inhabited by wild animals and almost no people. There is nothing
that resembles a road. Thus it is easy to get lost, and in
the event of a break-down you are totally left to your own
devices.
This area can only be negotiated by 4x4, and it should always
be a party with at least two vehicles. Careful preparation
and suitable equipment are a must; there is no shortage of
travel literature, maps and GPS data. Unless you are a very
experienced off-road driver and wilderness camper, you should
join an organized, guided tour if you want to explore this
part of Kaokoland.
4x4
Kunene
This river originates in the Angolan highlands and for 350
km forms the border between Namibia and its northern neighbour.
It is one of the few perennial rivers in Namibia. In contrast
to the Orange River in the south, the Kunene is still inhabited
by crocodiles – thus swimming is not advisable.
Fishing
The water level is subject to continuous change as it is not
only determined by rainfalls in the catchment area but also
by the hydroelectric power plant at Ruacana. The turbines
are not permanently in use and sometimes the sluice gates
have to be opened to decrease the pressure on the dam. The
Kunene meanders through rocky terrain, is torrential in places
and becomes a rather wide stream when it meets the Atlantic
Ocean. Because of its flora and fauna the estuary is strictly
protected; amongst others, two rare types of turtle come ashore
to deposit their eggs.
The road between
Ruacana and Epupa follows the course of the river. From Swartbooisdrift,
however, it turns into a challenging and time-consuming 4x4
track. You can also travel this leg of the journey by boat:
special two-seater inflatable canoes are used for a tour (in
a group) of several days. Some of the accommodation facilities
along this part of the river also rent out boats for excursions
of just a few hours. For more details see our information
sheet ‘Going Wild for Namibia’s Waters’.
Driving is not possible beyond Epupa, where the riverbanks
are tropical green in places, as the steep slopes of the Baynes
and Otjihipa Mountains constitute insurmountable obstacles.
Swartbooisdrift
Participants of the 'Dorslandtrek' (Boers from South Africa
on their so-called Thirstlandtrek) crossed the Kunene at this
fjord more than 100 years ago when they returned from southern
Angola. The hardships suffered by the Boers are called back
to mind by a small memorial on a rise south of the ford. Swartbooisdrift
is where the roads part. Skilful 4x4 drivers, who really want
to know their worth, continue next to the Kunene’s course.
They will need one or two days to negotiate the 100 km to
Epupa. Everybody else will turn south, pass the Zebra Mountains
and arrive at Epupa in about four hours.
Epupa
This little spot consists of a few huts and small houses,
two adjoining tourist camps directly on the river –
and the waterfalls. Before reaching the falls the river widens
into a small delta. Besides the main channel, which plummets
into a narrow gorge, there are numerous cascades of varying
width. On the rock islands huge Baobab trees raise their branches
to the sky. During the day there is ample opportunity to explore
Epupa and the surroundings on foot, whether on a guided hike
of several hours or just a walk along the falls. Towards evening
everybody flocks to the rocks opposite the falls to watch
the sun go down. Photographers will revel in the endless array
of glorious themes when daylight turns into dusk. Apart from
the picturesque falls Epupa has an interesting geology –
with the oldest rocks in Namibia. The Metamorphic Complex
is between 2,100 million and 1,750 million years old and dates
back to a time when two ancient continental plates collided.
Opuwo
This little town is the administrative and educational centre
of the Kunene Region. And it is the only place far and wide
where you can fill up your car and buy the most essential
groceries. Opuwo appears rather bizarre to the traveller,
as this is where the totally opposite worlds of western civilization
and traditional Africa collide: the 4x4 next to a donkey,
the Himba man clad in jeans and a European soccer club’s
tricot next to the bare-breasted Himba woman with skin shimmering
red, the ice-cold Coke next to a calabash holding traditional
sour milk.
Baobab Forest
On the way between Opuwo and Fort Sesfontein you pass a major
stand of enormous Baobab trees. With some imagination –
and compared to the prevailing vegetation dominated by bush
and grass – this patch could be called a ‘forest’.
Desert-dwelling Elephant
The courses of the seasonal Hoanib and Hoarusib, but also
those of rivers further south, right down to the Aba Huab,
sustain elephant which have adapted to the arid, hostile environment
of Kaokoveld. They are one of the few free-roaming populations
worldwide. These so-called ‘Desert-dwelling Elephant’
are not a species in their own right but rank among the African
Savannah Elephant. They feed on leaves, twigs and the bark
of shrubs and trees and dig for water in the river courses
– if no surface water is available. About 80 years ago
there were still about 3,000 of them in the Kunene Region.
At the start of the eighties they had become almost extinct.
After they were placed under protection the numbers increased
again – today there are an estimated 700 Elephant.
In recent years
they have unfortunately become quite famous through the attention
of the media, which resulted in a rush of ‘Elephant
Tourism’. Tour groups are out to 'hunt' for the fascinating
pachyderms and vie for the most spectacular pictures. Cornered
in the confines of riverbeds, which often take the shape of
ravines, Elephant at times have been harassed to an extent
that has already provoked attacks and accidents. Thus, one
should always bear in mind that these are animals of the wilds
which have to be treated with respect and consideration. In
order to protect the Elephant of Kaokoveld from unnecessary
stress, ‘Elephant Guides’ have been trained in
Namibia for some time now. They are able to track Elephant
in the river courses in such a way that the animals are disturbed
as little as possible.
If you join one of these guides you can be certain of an exciting
and enriching experience even if it should so happen that
you do not spot any Elephant at all. A little luck is always
needed if you want to see animals in the wilds.
Elephants
Sesfontein
The name of this hamlet means ‘six springs’. It
consists of quite a few scattered huts and small houses, a
school, a little shop and a petrol station. This settlement
dates back to 1896, the time of a devastating rinderpest.
The German colonial power chose Sesfontein for establishing
a veterinary post to control the cattle trade from the north.
During the next ten years the post grew into a fort. It was
abandoned after the First World War and subsequently dilapidated
until only remains of the walls were left. The fort was later
reconstructed to serve as tourist accommodation. Sesfontein
is an ideal starting point for a tour into the seasonal Hoanib
River or a safari into Kaokoveld.
Twyfelfontein
Twyfelfontein remains one of the country’s favourable
attractions and since June 2007 enjoys the status of being
Namibia’s first World Heritage Site, securely tucked
away between the granites of an ancient, arid region. Its
name when translated directly, means “doubtful fountain”
still has most people “doubtful” on the true purpose
of the rock art. Most guides will tell you that it is presumed
that the rock illustrations were possibly meant to teach the
children: which animals were good to eat, which were dangerous
and what their spoor looked like. Some experts are even sure
that when the drawings are less good, it was possibly children
practising. Others have written that it must have had some
sort of religious/cultural significance, though to date it
is not clearly known what the objective really was. In any
case, the site is unusual in Africa as it has both carvings
(petroglyphs) and paintings (pictograms).
There are various
options of visiting the site and includes: a short walk of
about half an hour, or a longer scramble of an hour, or a
much longer tour for the really dedicated scholar. Whichever
option you choose, you have to take a guide, because there
has been some vandalism, damaging some of the art. Guides
are available at the sites and are well informed and also
members of the local community.
Many accommodation
establishments are situated in the nearby areas and cater
for all types of travellers, giving you the option to take
a whole day to explore the area.
Ongongo Waterfall
A few kilometres outside the little settlement of Warmquelle
water from a lukewarm spring cascades over a small waterfall
into a natural rock basin. This is a very popular spot with
Kaokoveld travellers as it offers the opportunity of a refreshing
bath to wash heat and dust from weary limbs.
Khowarib Gorge
The Hoanib River has dug itself a gorge which is up to 500
m deep and about 23 km long. Experienced 4x4 drivers can explore
the gorge during the dry season.
Rivers aplenty – discovering the Caprivi
The piercing, drawn out scream sets your teeth on edge. Plaintively
it resounds from the floodplains of the Chobe River. In the
twilight of dusk an African Fish Eagle swoops from a treetop,
skims the water and with a swish of powerful wings and wriggling
prey in his
talons, returns to his perch.
Canoe
Like no other animal the majestic bird with its striking cry
represents this part of Africa where water is plentiful, vegetation
diverse and the animal world abound. Part of the Caprivi consists
of huge areas which have been under protection for decades.
Since - depending on water levels - they are not always accessible,
their wonderful fauna and flora has been well preserved.
The Caprivi in
the north-east of Namibia is a narrow strip of land, 450 km
long and up to about 100 km wide, which was added to Namibia’s
main body like an artificial limb. It was conceived on the
drawing board in 1890 as a result of a swap agreement between
Imperial Germany and Great Britain: Germany got the appendage
with the desired access to the Zambezi River (and on top of
it the island of Helgoland); in return Britain received the
island of Zanzibar off the coast of German East Africa (today’s
Tanzania). The name of the newly acquired strip of land was
chosen in honour of the German chancellor of the time, Count
Leo von Caprivi.
The Caprivi Region
borders on Angola and Zambia in the north, on Botswana in
the south, and with its eastern tip even on Zimbabwe. Four
large rivers serve as boundaries and also traverse the strip
of land. The Okavango River first forms the border to Angola,
then cuts through western Caprivi and continues into Botswana
where it disappears in the world-famous Okavango Delta. The
Kwando divides western and eastern Caprivi, forms part of
the border to Botswana and when in flood fills the waterways
of the Linyanti and Chobe. The Chobe is the southern border
to Botswana until it joins the Zambezi at Impalila Island,
the easternmost tip of Namibia. The legendary, mighty Zambezi
from the north becomes the border to Zambia at Katima Mulilo.
Further downstream, between Zambia and Zimbabwe, it plunges
over the Victoria Falls and into spectacular gorges, and in
Mozambique it finally reaches the Indian Ocean. The Caprivi
with its tangled system of rivers, channels, floodplains and
relatively generous rainfalls is the only part of Namibia
where water is plentiful. Vast plains are flooded almost every
year, depending on the rainfalls in the neighbouring countries
in the north.
Then, only higher-lying islands rise from the water here and
there. During the dry season the floodwaters slowly recede
to reveal fertile pastures and arable land. The riverbanks
are permanently lined by subtropical vegetation.
Hippopotamus
The contrast to the arid main body of Namibia could hardly
be more pronounced. Lush vegetation in the finest nuances
of greens and yellows spreads out exuberantly, birds contribute
dots of blue, red and yellow and the deep blue sky is mirrored
in the water. The colourful Bee-Eater, the rare Angola Swallow
or the mighty African Fish Eagle fill the air with their chirping
and calling. Herds of Buffalo and Elephant move across the
borders of parks and countries; occasionally you spot the
rare Sitatunga. And ever so often you come across a small
village and the people who inhabit this region.
The parks and villages
described hereafter have been sorted geographically, following
the usual route taken by travellers arriving from the south-west.
Caprivi Game Park
The almost 200-km-stretch of land, drawn with a ruler between
the settlements of Divundu and Kongola, has been a nature
conservation area since 1963. In 1999 the game reserve was
renamed 'Bwabwata National Park'. This vast, flat area is
largely covered by mixed forests and it has not really been
opened up for tourism yet. Only on the eastern bank of the
Okavango, in the vicinity of the Popa Falls, there is a communal
camp site – which also happens to be the best place
for capturing the rapids on film. In the south-eastern end
of the park, a few kilometres from the village of Kongola,
you can camp in the open at Horseshoe Bend. Getting there
is quite an adventure, though, which should only be attempted
by 4x4 drivers with considerable experience in wilderness
tours.
Kongola
This tiny settlement consists of a few small houses and a
petrol station. At ‘Mashi Crafts’ you can buy
handcrafted items from the surrounding villages at very reasonable
prices, especially baskets in many African patterns.
Crafts
Lizauli
In the Caprivi you pass dozens of small settlements along
the roads. As a keenly interested traveller you would love
to stop and visit one of these busy little hamlets, if only
you could be sure of being welcome. The show village of Lizauli
south of Kongola aims to overcome such inhibitions. Totally
at ease, you can walk into the replica of a traditional homestead
and have the workings of everyday life explained to you. Apart
from the Chief’s house you will be shown a chicken pen
and a granary, for example, and how Mahango porridge is cooked.
To wrap up the tour of one or two hours, a play which illustrates
the legal system of a village community is performed for you:
A ‘thief’ who has robbed a visitor is brought
before the traditional village court. In Lizauli you can also
buy the versatile, very pretty basket-ware which is made right
there: waterproof document folders, for example. Proceeds
from the show village are used for the community.
Mudumu National Park
The western boundary of this nature reserve is the Kwando,
while in the east it gradually blends into the communal area.
Mudumu has barely been made accessible. The sandy paths in
the eastern parts can only be negotiated by 4x4 and only during
the dry season. The riverine vegetation is of a subtropical
green. The exuberance is matched by an unbelievable diversity
of bird life: more than 400 species are found in this magnificent
corner of the world. The many waterways of the Kwando are
best explored by boat, but for a close encounter with nature
you can also go on a hiking tour. Depending on the season,
Elephant, Buffalo and predators, including the very rare African
Wild Dog, move through this area. Crocodiles and Hippos are,
of course, permanent inhabitants of the rivers and floodplains.
Mamili National Park
The secluded wilderness of this vast swamp area is unique
in Namibia. The park is criss-crossed by waterways, some of
which make it all the way to the Linyanti River. Densely wooded
islands as well as patches of tall reeds or wide grass plains
are typical for this park. During the rainy season large parts
of Mamili are flooded and cannot be accessed. Even in the
dry season you should attempt this area only in a convoy of
at least two vehicles. Right at the start, when you enter
the park, you have to cross a rivulet which will give you
a faint idea of the difficulties ahead. Nights are spent at
rudimentary camping sites in the middle of the bush.
Mamili is particularly
known for its birds. With a little luck you will also encounter
Buffalo, Tsessebe, Lechwe and Sitatunga as well as Hyena,
Lion or even Leopard.
Lake Liambesi
Four different rivers and the labyrinth of channels and swamp
areas usually have travellers in eastern Caprivi rather confused
at first. Small wonder when waterways with different names
are connected, combine or intertwine. This is not all. Some
rivers in the Caprivi also flow backward at times. This amazing
phenomenon occurs, amongst others, in the Chobe and the Linyanti
which is connected to it. If the flood level of the Zambezi
rises to more than seven metres, the floods push back the
water of the other two rivers and thereby cause them to ‘flow
in reverse’.
If the water level
of the Linyanti rises far enough, the river overflows at Lake
Liambesi and rushes into the huge basin. This last happened
in the early eighties when the lake covered an area of about
100 km² (it later dried up completely). When the Zambezi
flooded in April 2004 the basin filled up once more to form
a lake of about 50 to 60 km². For the local population
Lake Liambesi is an important part of their livelihood. Within
the shortest time the lake teems with fish. Once it dries
up the fertile soil is cultivated.
Katima Mulilo
This little town became the administrative centre of the Caprivi
Region in 1935. For many years, until Namibia gained independence,
income in Katima was mainly derived from a South African army
base that was located there. Military operations against the
national liberation movement Swapo, which operated around
the border area of Zambia and Angola, were directed from this
town. After the army had left it was largely the small-scale
border traffic from Zambia which put new life into the remote
town. In May 2004 the old ferry across the Zambezi was replaced
by a bridge which makes an excellent link through southern
Zambia to Livingstone at the Victoria Falls.
In the centre of
Katima Mulilo there is a modest market where women sell fruit
and vegetables as well as dried and fresh fish. The small
Caprivi Arts & Crafts Centre on the opposite side offers
a good selection of handicraft, also from neighbouring countries.
Items range from Geckos made from recycled metal to artistically
woven baskets, finely carved drums and stylishly shaped pottery.
At the outskirts
of town the Zambezi’s heavenly nature beckons: you can
go on fishing trips, boat and kayak tours or enjoy yourself
bird watching.
Schuckmannsburg
This traditional village is comparatively large, but otherwise
it looks just like the many other settlements along the Zambezi.
From 1909 to 1914 this was Imperial Germany’s only administrative
outpost in the Caprivi. Rather pompously it was named after
then-governor Schuckmann in Windhoek. The colonial presence
was maintained by a major with a few soldiers and some servants.
The main task consisted of surveying the area and recording
meteorological data. No traces from those times are left in
Schuckmannsburg.
Salambala Conservancy
Following other examples in Namibia, this communal conservancy
was established with the aim to attract tourists through nature
conservation. Income generated from tourist facilities are
ploughed back into nature conservation efforts or used for
building schools or clinics for the community. Salambala Conservancy
was set up around 1996 and apart from trophy hunting, also
offers guided hiking tours. There are elevated platforms for
game watching and a watering point which is regularly frequented
by game.
Impalila Island
You can reach this easternmost corner of Namibia only in a
roundabout way - it is the most wonderful experience. The
boat which takes you across the Chobe River departs from Kasane
in Botswana. Visitors to Impalila Island can join a tour of
the river’s inlets in a mokoro, a dugout canoe; they
can explore the island which is about 11 km long and 4 km
wide, visit villages and their inhabitants or just enjoy the
fishing.
|
