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The following descriptions
and details are not in alphabetical but in geographical order,
in line with the general travelling route from the capital,
Windhoek, in the centre of the country down to Keetmanshoop
in the east, to the Fish River Canyon, then west to Lüderitz
on the Atlantic coast and from there back north to Sossusvlei
in the Dune Namib.
Rehoboth
The beginnings of this settlement date back to 1845 when the
Rhenish Mission Society founded a mission station for the
Swartbooi-Nama in the vicinity of a hot spring. In 1864 the
station was abandoned, however. In 1870 Kaptein (leader) Hermanus
van Wyk settled in Rehoboth with about 30 families. The settlement
expanded around Paul’s Church, built in 1907, but did
not develop a real centre. The hot spring is still there and
supplies 'Reho Spa' with thermal water. The former lodgings
of the postmaster of 1903 house a museum, where you can learn
more about the Baster and other peoples of Namibia.
Oanob Dam, which supplies Rehoboth with drinking water and
serves as a nearby recreational area, is situated north-west
of the town. The camelthorn tree forest, with many of these
acacias unusually close together, is located to the south-east.
Hoachanas
Slightly north of Hoachanas, at Farm Jena, the workshops of
the well-known Namibian embroidery business 'Anin' (Nama:
many birds) can be found. Home textiles, from table linen
to bed linen, are created there from high-quality materials.
For many Nama families living around Hoachanas this craft
is the sole source of income. Blue skies and excellent thermal
conditions in the south are ideal for gliding. Thus a flying
centre in the vicinity of Hoachanas has turned into a mecca
for gliders.
Hardap Dam and Recreational Park
Since 1963 the Fish River has been dammed up near Mariental
to form Namibia’s largest artificial lake. With a capacity
of about 320 million m³ it supplies Mariental with water
and is also used for irrigating cultivated land below the
dam’s wall. In 1964 an area of 250 km² next to
the lake was proclaimed a nature conservation area. Hartmann’s
Mountain Zebra, Kudu, Oryx, Hartebeest, Ostrich and Black
Rhino can be encountered in the surrounding areas.
Over the years Hardap Dam has also become a refuge for birds,
including aquatic birds. Pelicans breed here, and the cry
of the famous African Fish Eagle can be heard and the rare
African Spoonbill can be spotted. In a country, where surface
water is a rarity, a lake is tremendously attractive.
Hardap Dam
Therefore a rest-camp was built in 1974 above the dam’s
wall. The lake is ideal for aquatic sports; apart from fishing
you can take a boat trip for a closer look at the bird islands,
go on a game drive or a hiking tour.
Gibeon
This sleepy hamlet became world famous for its meteorite shower.
Around 1911 geologist Dr. Paul Range brought 37 large pieces,
weighing about 31 tons in total, to Windhoek. Some of the
pieces, an iron-nickel mix, can be seen in museums all over
the world – including the museum of the Geological Survey
of Namibia in Windhoek. Gibeon’s meteorites also adorn
the fountain in Post Mall Street in downtown Windhoek.
Gibeon is the settlement
area of the Witbooi-Oorlam. One of their leaders was the legendary
Hendrik Witbooi, who fought against German colonial rule from
1904 and was killed in action in 1905. He is depicted on Namibia’s
banknotes. Seven decades later his grandson Hendrik (Samuel)
Witbooi followed his example: to protest against South African
Apartheid policies he joined the resistance movement SWAPO
in 1976. He subsequently lost his post as a headmaster and
went on to found a private school which no longer followed
the prescribed syllabus.
Every year in October
the Witbooi People commemorate their ancestors. Visitors are
most welcome to join in the festivities.
Brukkaros
This massif is visible long before you arrive: Brukkaros is
1,590m high and rises by about 600m over the plateau which
characterises the landscape. For decades geologists have disagreed
about the origins of the three-kilometre-basin of Brukkaros.
Even though this mountain looks like an extinct volcano, it
now seems that it did not originate from volcanic activity.
Instead, it is thought that the crater-like basin is the result
of a subterranean gas-explosion, which caused an enormous
cavity to implode. You can climb Brukkaros from the southern
rim of the crater. From there a path leads down into the basin
and to an old research station.
Quiver Tree Forests
The 'Aloe dichotoma' is the landmark of the south –
this rare plant occurs only in north-western South Africa
and most of all in southern Namibia. It is called quiver tree
because in earlier times the San made quivers from the branches.
There are two well-known spots with numerous large aloes
Quiver Tree Forests
in the vicinity of Keetmanshoop. These trees are estimated
to be 200 to 300 years old. The 'forest' at Farm Gariganus
north-east of Keetmanshoop consists of about 250 trees, scattered
far apart. This site was proclaimed a National Heritage Site
in 1955. The other ‘forest’ is located about 20
km north of Keetmanshoop, right next to the tarred road. Quiver
trees flower in June/July. Their large, brilliantly yellow
flower heads form a wonderful contrast to the clear, deep
blue southern sky. Situated on rocky outcrops, the quiver
tree forests are attractive photo themes in the morning and
evening light..
Giants’ Playground
Apart from quiver trees, Farm Gariganus boasts a remarkable
example of the tremendous powers which shaped the earth aeons
ago: blocks of greyish-black dolerite are stacked upon one
another at the Giants’ Playground as if giants have
been playing with bricks. The grounds can be regarded as a
sculpture garden which can be viewed from a circular route.
Giants’ Playground
Keetmanshoop
This town started as a settlement of the Velskoendraer-Nama
(correct English translation: wearers of fur-shoes), where
the Rhenish Mission Society established a mission station
in 1866. The place was named after a German merchant, Johann
Keetman, who generously supported the mission station financially.
‘Keetmanshoop’ is Afrikaans for Keetman’s
hope. The town is the administrative centre of a vast arid
region which is utilised for farming – mostly karakul
sheep, and also ostrich. Downtown, some buildings from colonial
times have been preserved: the railway station, built in 1907/08
and still in use; the Imperial Post Office from 1910, which
now houses a visitor information centre; and the old church
of the Rhenish Mission Society. The church was renovated and
proclaimed a national monument in 1978. Today it is a museum
with exhibits of photos and objects from around the previous
turn of the century; agricultural equipment and the model
of a Nama hut are also on show.
Kalahari
Embracing eastern Namibia and western Botswana, the Kalahari
forms a large basin which stretches from north-eastern Namibia
down to South Africa. Lines of parallel red dunes, usually
with tufts of tall grass, are a characteristic feature. Due
to underground water gnarled old acacias can often be found
in the valleys between the dunes. As unbelievable as it may
sound: this dry, inhospitable landscape is the habitat of
many animal species. With a little luck you will encounter
Springbok, Oryx and Ostrich. The further east you venture,
the more probable it is to encounter predators as well.
Warmbad
This little hamlet, founded in the vicinity of a warm spring,
is in the settlement area of the Bondelswart-Nama. In 1890
the German Schutztruppe established a police station in Warmbad.
Then it was a rather well-known place, because all travellers
from and to South Africa passed through it. Today, like many
of the remote villages in the barren south, Warmbad is threatened
by decay. All hopes for a small impulse to restore life therefore
rest on tourism. With the assistance of NACOBTA, an organisation
supporting tourism businesses in rural areas and communities,
a museum was set up in Warmbad’s former prison. It documents
the history of the Nama from the times before the first missionaries
arrived in 1806 up till today. Another important aspect is
the Bondelswart uprising against the German colonial power
in 1903, which basically started the wars of the OvaHerero
as well as other Nama and Oorlam peoples. Other historical
relics include the remains of old camel stables from Schutztruppe
times, a mission house and a church from 1806. The warm spring
is still there, too. Its water runs into an outside pool where
you can have a swim.
Every year in October
the Bondelswart commemorate their Kaptein Jan Abraham Christiaan,
who was killed in 1903. His death was the cause for the Bondelswart
uprising. As with the commemoration celebrations of the Witbooi,
visitors are very welcome.
The Orange River
This river is among the most remarkable ones in Africa. Its
source is at an altitude of more than 3,100 metres in Lesotho,
far away in the east, from where it crosses South Africa and
finally forms the border with Namibia on its last 500 km before
reaching the Atlantic Ocean at Oranjemund. The Orange River
carries water throughout the year – a very rare feature
in Namibia where the only other four perennial rivers form
the northern border. Due to its many cataracts and relatively
low water level the Orange River is only suitable for small
boats. This characteristic makes the river quite charming.
Guided canoe tours, starting at Noordoewer, allow glimpses
- which you cannot have by car - of the largely untouched
riverine nature.
The road along
the Orange River to Rosh Pinah is still relatively unknown
and therefore not much frequented. This is sure to change
in the near future. The reason is the merging of two national
parks which border on the Orange River: in the south it is
South Africa’s Richtersveld National Park and on Namibia’s
side the Ai-Ais Hot Springs Game Park.
Ai-Ais / Richtersveld Transfrontier Park
This 5,900 km² nature conservation area across national
borders was officially launched by the governments of Namibia
and South Africa in August 2003. With Ai-Ais Hot Springs Game
Park, including Fish River Canyon and the little known and
almost inaccessible Hunsberg nature reserve, Namibia contributed
almost three quarters of the Transfrontier Park. The rugged
mountain deserts of the park are part of the Succulent Karoo,
one of the richest and most valuable plant kingdoms on earth.
Here you will find the earlier mentioned succulent called
halfmens, as well as lithops (stone plants), rare aloes and
crassula, which turn this landscape into colourful fields
of flowers during the rainy season. In this area you will
hardly encounter any game, though. However, the intense green
banks of the Orange River provide a habitat for hundreds of
bird species, including many birds of prey.
Fish River Canyon
The canyon of the Fish River is one of the main attractions
in southern Namibia. Many call it the second largest canyon
on earth and compare it to the Grand Canyon of the Colorado
River in the US. Some argue that the Fish River Canyon is
only the second largest in Africa, after the narrow valley
of the Blue Nile.
Fish River Canyon
But neither comparison does justice to the Fish River Canyon
which in its geological history and appearance clearly differs
from the others. The main event in the formation of the gorges,
which are up to 500 metres deep, was the break-up of the ancient
continent of Gondwana about 130 million years ago, as a result
of which the rim of the African landmass was lifted.
As is typical for
Namibia, the Fish River is a seasonal river which only carries
water after rainfalls in its catchment area. This occurs during
a few weeks each year, usually between January and April,
and in some years not at all. The famous canyon is located
downriver. It cuts through a seemingly endless, stony semi-desert,
dominated by shades of brown and beige which are only occasionally
interrupted by green euphorbia or tall quiver trees.
Some 80 km of the
canyon are accessible for visitors: the part between the Ai-Ais
rest camp at the southern end and the main viewing point at
Hobas in the north. Travelling between these points you will
get a good grasp of the dimensions of the Fish River Canyon.
The road along the eastern side of the canyon climbs several
hills from which you can enjoy panoramic views of this magnificent
landscape. The 80 km hiking trail through the Fish River gorge
is regarded as one of the most beautiful in southern Africa.
Four to five days are needed for the trail.
Ai-Ais Hot Springs Resort
Ai-Ais: ‘very hot’ or ‘hot water’
is what the Nama called this place. Water from the springs
at Ai-Ais is pumped into the thermal baths at a temperature
of 60 degrees Celsius. The water is rich in fluorides, sulphates
and chlorides and is said to relieve rheumatic ailments and
illnesses of the nervous system. Totally healthy visitors
will find a bath most relaxing, too. The thermal baths are
situated on the grounds of a rest-camp in the narrow gorge
at the southern end of the Fish River Canyon, far below the
highland plateau. Ai-Ais is now open throughout the year.
You should bear in mind, though, that it can become excessively
hot during the summer months (October to March).
Hobas
The main viewing point at the canyon is at Hobas. Here, the
canyon’s rugged cliffs plunge down more than 500 metres.
Nearby, a steep path, secured with chains, winds downwards
into the gorge. Visitors are not permitted to descend into
the canyon. Only participants of the Fish River hiking tour
are allowed past the entry point.
Gondwana Cañon Park
This private nature reserve forms the eastern boundary of
the Ai-Ais / Richtersveld Transfrontier Park and is also part
of the biologically unique Succulent Karoo. The annual rainfall
in this area is barely 100 mm – barely enough for sheep
farming. Since the establishment of the park in 1996 and the
end of farming, the damage caused by overgrazing has almost
vanished already. Original plants have reclaimed their ground
and the numbers of Mountain Zebra, Springbok, Oryx and Ostrich
have increased again. Even Giraffe, which inhabited this area
long ago, have been resettled. Guests of the park’s
accommodation facilities can join guided hiking tours or excursions
on horseback.
Naute Recreational Park
In 1972 the seasonal Löwen River was dammed up to form
Namibia’s third largest dam. Naute Dam has a capacity
of about 69 Million m³ and supplies mainly Keetmanshoop
with drinking water. Arriving from the south you can turn
off to the right into a game park before you reach the dam’s
wall. As the park was set up rather recently, animals are
rarely seen, but the lake is a bird paradise and it is suitable
for swimming.
Bethanien
The Oorlam people called this place a ‘spring which
cannot be closed with a stone’. There, a missionary
by the name of Schmelen, sent by the London Missionary Society,
founded Bethanien in 1814. Discouraged by a draught, a locust
plague and by the Oorlams’ refusal to stop their periodical
cattle thieving, Schmelen gave up on his work in 1822. Bethanien
is one of those little settlements of the south which have
seen better times. Visitors will hardly guess that an important
chapter in Namibia’s history was opened right here in
Bethanien: on 1 May 1883 Heinrich Vogelsang signed a contract
(on behalf of Adolf Lüderitz) for purchasing the Bay
of Angra Pequeña (later called Lüderitzbucht)
from Oorlam Chief Joseph Fredericks. It was the beginning
of the colony of German South West Africa. Next to the Lutheran
church, restored to its original state, visitors will find
a replica of the stone house built by missionary Schmelen.
The tiny 'Schmelen-Haus' houses an exhibition, lovingly put
together, on the missionary history of Bethanien, as well
as photos and documents. The house of Kaptein Joseph Fredericks
still exists as well.
Aus
Compared to the Fish River area the landscape around Aus seems
gentle and wide. Bathed in pastel shades, the softly undulating
plains surround the dark mountains, which rise from them,
like snow blown there by the wind. Because of the railway
line from Lüderitz to Keetmanshoop, which reached Aus
in late 1906, the place gained some importance for a short
time. In 1915 the South African army established a camp for
German prisoners of war east of Aus. Few traces are left of
it – some rusty pieces of metal and remains of mud-brick
walls polished by the wind.
Garub and the Wild Horses of the Namib
In the early 20th century steam engines on the Lüderitz–Keetmanshoop
line had to stop at the railway station Garub, about 20 km
west of Aus, to refill with water. It was pumped from a borehole
several kilometres away. Later a watering point was set up
nearby for the Wild Horses of the Namib, which roam the vicinity.
The horses’ origin was the subject of numerous stories
for decades. The results of fresh studies, however, give reason
to believe that most of them descended from South African
army stock which was dispersed during the First World War
and ran wild (see www.wildhorses-namibia.com). Over the decades
the horses have excellently adapted to the harsh conditions
of the desert. The watering point, about two kilometres from
the tarred road, is a good place to watch them.
Kolmanskuppe (Kolmanskop)
The wind tugs at the wooden shutters, doors and roof beams.
Rusty water pipes and railway tracks disappear into sandy
oblivion. Rooms with high ceilings and even whole houses are
filled by rippled dunes. Through broken windows and holes
in roofs or walls the sun paints bizarre pictures of light
and shadow.
Kolmanskuppe
The appealing atmosphere of the dilapidation of a settlement
which once flourished in the hostile desert attracts around
20,000 tourists each year. Kolmanskuppe sprang up in 1908
after diamonds were found. During the following years the
little town was the centre of a veritable diamond rush –
which filled it with life. All that remains today are the
Diamond Restricted Area, where mining of precious stones continues,
and the ghost town of Kolmanskuppe. You can join a guided
tour through the ruins, including the old ice factory, the
butchery, the skittle-alley and the hall which was used for
gymnastics and festivities. There is also a small museum and
an exhibit about mining and processing diamonds. You can even
buy diamonds (up to one carat), issued with a certificate
and sealed in a pretty package – a lasting souvenir
of your visit to Kolmanskuppe.
Lüderitz
Lüderitz, more than 100 years old, is situated on a forbidding
and varied stretch of coast. The grey Gneiss serves as an
attractively austere backdrop to the town and its buildings,
some of which are gaily coloured. The history of Lüderitz
fills volumes. It is about Portuguese seafarers, British whalers
Lüderitz
and sealers, a merchant from Bremen and German fortune-hunters.
And it is characterised by a magical rise, a rich golden season,
protracted languishing and a miraculous resurrection.
Lüderitz boasts
many witnesses of the past. Apart from ‘Diaz Point’,
the rock on which the Portuguese put up a stone cross as a
landmark, there is the picturesque Felsenkirche (Rock Church),
stately ‘Goerke House’ and other magnificent Jugendstil
buildings from the period of promoterism – and, of course,
the nearby ghost town of Kolmanskuppe. In addition, excursions
into the Restricted Area, to other deserted diamond settlements
like Pomona or to Bogenfels (rock arch) beckon. Lüderitz
also offers modern-day attractions and activities: the Waterfront
with its yacht club, a wellness centre, boat trips to lone
islands inhabited only by seals and penguins, drives to hidden
bays or 4x4 tours into the Dune Namib north of the town. Not
to mention the culinary delights for which Lüderitz is
famous: fresh crayfish and oysters, depending on the season.
Tiras Mountains and Namibia’s most beautiful by-road
On your way from Aus to the north you come to the Tiras Mountains,
which you can by-pass on a westerly route. This gravel road
is often said to be Namibia’s most beautiful by-road.
It takes you through a wide open landscape, with the distant
red dunes of the Namib lining one side and the tall Tiras
Mountains rising into the blue sky on the other side. Like
the far south this is an area where it may rain in winter
(June to August), resulting in a fauna and flora which is
highly interesting for biologists.
Helmeringhausen
Looking at southern Namibia on the map, some prominent dots
catch the eye. They must be towns, you think – Kalkrand,
Seeheim, Betta or, well, Helmeringhausen. All these little
‘towns’ basically consist of a dusty throughway
and a petrol station – and they have a special 'Out
of Africa' flair in common. Helmeringhausen also boasts a
café, a hotel with an open-air museum, a post office
and a shop.
Maltahöhe
This sleepy hamlet was founded around the turn of the previous
century and named after Malta, the wife of a Schutztruppe
commander. Apart from a somewhat old-fashioned hotel in the
centre of the little town there is the Oahera Art Market at
the western fringe. Visitors are welcome to watch local Nama
create handcrafted items. Souvenirs from Namibia’s other
regions are also available. Other attractions include sightseeing
in a donkey cart; if you like you are also taken to the nearby
Nama settlement. Lastly, there is Maltahöhe’s school
choir, bursting with zest and sound. Traditional songs and
dances will be performed for larger groups by prior arrangement.
Schloss Duwisib (Duwisib Castle)
It does exude something eccentric – this fortified manor
house in the hilly African landscape south-west of Maltahöhe.
Castle Duwisib was built in 1908 by a former Schutztruppe
officer, Hansheinrich von Wolf, and his American wife Jayta.
Duwisib Castle
With the exception of the sandstone all building materials
and furnishings were shipped from Europe to Lüderitz
and from there hauled to Duwisib through the desert by ox-wagon.
In the following years von Wolf acquired considerable property
and bred horses. In 1914 the couple was on their way to Europe
to buy additional horses, when the First World War broke out.
Von Wolf managed to get to Germany where he signed up for
military service. He was killed in action in September 1916
in the battle of the Somme in France. His wife Jayta never
returned to South West Africa. Castle Duwisib is in excellent
repair. A tour of the property includes the Rittersaal (Banqueting
Hall), the dining room, a Biedermeier parlour and the former
owners’ private chambers along with some of the original
old furnishings.
Neuras
This farm is situated in the sparse hills east of the Naukluft
Mountains and offers something which you would not expect
to find in this wasteland. It produces wine, even though in
very small quantities. The retired, passionate hobby-winemaker
is happy to take you on a guided tour of his premises –
but not during harvesting in January/February.
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